Photo: Abby Thompson
The fashion world has always been a bit of a black box—glamorous on the outside, mysterious on the inside. But one of the industry’s biggest shifts in recent years has been happening in plain sight: the way designers and casting directors choose models.
If the old process was a gate-kept club managed by a handful of powerful agencies, today it looks more like a chaotic, creative free-for-all where Instagram grids matter as much as your measurements.
So, how exactly does someone land a spot on the runway in 2024? The answer involves a mix of social media savvy, a new definition of diversity, and a lot of cultural context. Here’s what really happens when designers and casting directors make their picks—and why it reflects much more than just aesthetics.
Social Media Has Turned Everyone Into a Scout
If you’ve scrolled through Instagram lately, you’ve probably noticed that the line between influencer and model has all but disappeared. And that’s no accident. For casting directors, Instagram isn’t just a portfolio—it’s a talent goldmine.
“Models today are brands in themselves,” one casting director explains. “We’re not just looking for a face; we’re looking for someone who adds a layer to the story we’re trying to tell.”
That story is increasingly told online. A model with 50K followers might not just walk in a show—they’re also amplifying it to their audience. The result? A direct-to-consumer connection that brands are hungry for. And yes, hashtags like #CastingCall and #ModelSearch have become legitimate ways to break into the industry.
Diversity: More Than a Buzzword
Fashion’s reckoning with representation has pushed diversity to the forefront of casting conversations. The shift is real, but it’s also strategic. Today’s consumers demand more than aspirational images—they want inclusion.
“We don’t design for one type of person anymore, so why cast one type of model?” a rising streetwear designer tells us. It’s not just about ethnicity; it’s about size, age, gender identity, and everything in between.
But here’s the catch: brands that ignore this shift risk irrelevance. The new generation of fashion buyers won’t hesitate to call out homogeneity—and the industry is (finally) listening.
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Agencies Are No Longer the Only Gatekeepers
For decades, agencies were the ultimate middlemen. And while they’re still major players, they’re no longer the only ones controlling who gets in. Independent models—those who book gigs directly through social media or freelance platforms—are shaking up the power dynamics.
For emerging designers with smaller budgets, working directly with models can mean skipping the hefty agency fees. It also means more creative freedom. “I don’t want a cookie-cutter roster,” one indie designer explains. “I want people who reflect my brand’s vibe, not just a ‘look.’”
The Personality Factor
Modeling isn’t just about looking good in a garment anymore. It’s about bringing a vibe, a story, a certain je ne sais quoi to the runway.
“Some models elevate an outfit just by the way they carry themselves,” a veteran casting director says. “Others walk in, and you can tell instantly—this person has it.”
That “it” factor is especially important in today’s crowded fashion landscape, where personality can make or break a campaign. Think of it this way: models are no longer blank canvases. They’re co-creators of the narrative.
Technology Is Changing the Game
If you thought fashion casting was immune to tech disruption, think again. Tools like AI and augmented reality (AR) are making it easier for designers to visualize how a model’s body type, walk, or energy will work with a collection before they even meet them.
But even as technology improves, it hasn’t replaced the human element. “AI can’t tell you if someone has star power,” a designer admits. “That’s still a gut decision.”
What It All Means for the Future
Casting has always been about connection—between designer and model, between brand and audience. But the rules of the game are changing fast. Today’s casting decisions reflect the industry’s push toward inclusivity, individuality, and immediacy.
And as fashion continues to evolve, one thing is certain: the process will keep reflecting the cultural shifts shaping our world. Because at the end of the day, casting isn’t just about choosing who gets to walk the runway. It’s about deciding who gets to shape the future of fashion.